专访 | 京城餐饮老板——段誉

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人物简介 /Profile/

段誉来自河南，自1996年进厨房，一路脚踏实地，勤奋拼搏，从大排档做到五星级酒店，并先后担任北京新世界酒店、北京瑰丽酒店、北京泰富酒店中餐行政总厨。在20多年的厨师生涯中，他以“熟醉蟹”一举成名，又推出“段氏绝味鱼头”、“黑松露牛骨髓煲仔饭”，被誉为“段氏三绝”。虽然名声大噪，段誉始终保持谦逊，从未停止前进的脚步。2009年，段誉创立菜品设计工作室，为国内多家知名餐饮品牌做过菜品设计、研发以及餐具设计。

2018年，段誉创立了北京拾久新京菜，作为他的第一家旗舰餐厅。拾久以独特新颖的概念呈现新式北京风味，装修设计高贵而时尚，菜品与服务皆物超所值。虽然餐厅是从一个旧仓库改造而来，却迅速成为喧嚣都市中一个趋之若鹜的享食绿洲，在一年之内便摘得米其林一星。之后，段誉在蓝色港湾开设第二家分店，享食空间更大，设计也更为精致，同样在开业不到一年就为其赢得了另一颗米其林星。

在2020年餐饮业面临疫情的巨大挑战之时，段誉逆风而行，大胆创建北京新概念火锅品牌——新京熹火锅，以优质的时令食材、别具一格的装修设计，将北京火锅以现代的方式重新演绎，更打造京剧剧院的场所之感，巧妙地融入老北京的风情与韵味。随后，他在静谧的北京胡同里开设了京艳·翰林书院京府菜，这里既是高端飨宴的餐厅，更是收藏着许多古代书籍和文学作品的历史图书馆。毫无疑问，另一颗新星正在悄然升起。

Hailing from Henan province, Duan Yu has had worked in all kinds of kitchens since 1996 when he began his chef's career. His story best portrays one who has risen from rags to riches, starting with a modest food stall all the way up to the kitchens of five-star hotel as Executive Chef of Chinese cuisine. Among the global hospitality brands he worked with include New World Hotel Beijing Rosewood Beijing, and Beijing Tylfull Hotel. Over his 20 years career, he created many outstanding dishes, starting with his iconic "Drunken Cooked Crab". The dish earned him his popularity in the dining circuit. One signature dish followed another, among which are "Duan's Fish Head" and "Black Truffle & Beef Marrow Rice in Clay Pot". The three culinary master pieces became synonymous to his name as "The Three Wonders of Duan". With his reputation goeth before him, Duan remained modest and soft spoken, working tirelessly to continually better his craft. In 2009, he founded a design studio engaged in designing and fabricating dishes, utensils, and tableware, including research and development works for noted domestic catering brands.

Fast forward to 2018, Duan founded Poetry & Wine, his first flagship restaurant with a unique concept of novel Beijing cuisine: Haute and stylish, plus incredible value for money. The old warehouse that was converted into a dining oasis was soon queuing with diners from lunch to dinner. While located at an obscure commercial neighborhood south of the capital, Poetry & Wine earned its first Michelin star within a year's operation. Sooner than later, Duan opened his second, bigger and more elaborate branch at Solana Park, which earned him another Michelin star in less than a year from opening.

Against all odds plaqued by the Pandemic, Duan braved the risks by opening his Peking Hot Pot at the closing of 2020. He ingeniously re-created traditional Beijing hotpot with new concept of modernity, seasonality, and premium ingredients coupled with tradition Beijing touch. The spacious restaurant resembles a grandiose Peking Opera theater with live operatic arias. Next in line, he opened Jingyan Hanlin Shuyan, a super-fine dining Chinese restaurant cum library nestled in a historical courtyard in Beijing's sleepy old hutong. The place prides itself with exclusive collections of archaic books and literatures, dating back many dynasties. And no less, another star is in the making.

作为餐厅老板的愿景和使命

Vision and Mission as Restaurateur

我想更好地表达自己对菜品的见解与理念，所以做了餐厅老板。我的愿景是成为新一代餐饮人。我的使命是成为中餐可持续发展理念的践行者和倡导者。

My fervent desire is to convey my insights and translate my concepts in the dishes I create with more clarity and eloquence. This aspiration prodded me to couple my profession as chef with that of a restaurateur. My vision sees me as a new generation of chef-restaurateur at the forefront, fostering development of Chinese cuisine with new and sustainable approaches.

餐厅理念

Defining Restaurant Concept

我的理念是遵循传承、食材原产地，以艺术与城市人文连接，倡导以东方待客之道，传递新北京、新京菜。

The concepts that I have for my restaurants will always be focused on cultural heritage, the origin of ingredients, arts, the Humanities, and oriental hospitality, altogether giving modern Beijing its rightful and deserving nouveau cuisine.

餐饮行业的挑战

Challenges in Today's Catering Industry

目前来说，中餐经过了疫情带来的一次革命，当然也催生出很多创业机会，更是品牌升级的好时机，所以整体趋势还是向好的发展。至于挑战，目前来说还是要看全球的疫情管控，因为餐饮的发展离不开交流与流量，中餐也需要多向发达国家学习，迎接中国餐饮的下一个高峰。关于机遇，随着大众品质生活的提高，中餐需要更多有担当、有品质的餐饮品牌，因此我们会继续努力，打造优质品牌。

At present, Chinese cuisine has been experiencing a revolution brought about by the challenges of the Pandemic. At the same time, of course, such challenges also spawned many entrepreneurial opportunities, among which is branding and re-branding, as well as market positioning. All these are ongoing for the better in response to the changing conditions. And, all what's forthcoming will still depend on the developments to come globally, because the local catering industry is globally connected and inseparable, as with communication and mode of transactions. Further, people involved in Chinese catering business need to learn from their more advanced counterparts elsewhere. On the other hand, the awareness and demands for quality, food safety, and hygiene are opening the doors for improvements and new approaches in propelling Chinese cuisine and catering business to the next level.

不断变化的美食潮流

Changing Food Trends

未来餐饮的发展趋势是坚持可持续性理念，更加注重食材原产地及绿色生态。

Trends are dictated by global issues, such as sustainability, traceability, and ecology. I believe this will be the path for the coming trends.

团队精神和价值观

Teamwork and Values

中国人讲品德，所以“以德服人”很重要。我们首先要把自己经营好，才能更好地服务客人、服务团队。

Chinese people are highly conscious of integrity and ethics. So, it is very important to connect on that level of virtue. We must first be upright in our thoughts and deeds in order to better lead our team and serve our customers.

餐厅评选和奖项

Restaurant Awards and Accolades

所有奖项的价值就是对餐饮人的认同和认可，这也是对从业员工和产品的一种鞭策和鼓励，更给了我们一个新的标准。我认为，对于餐厅来说，专业是最基本的标准。

The value of all awards is the recognition given to the people concerned, and as well serve as great motivation for them to continually improve and work hard in deserving such accolades. New standards are continually set, and this also flows down the line to all related entities. Personally, I believe professionalism is the most basic criterion for food and beverage services.

终极梦想

My Ultimate Dream

如果我拥有无限的才华、权利和财力资源，我会让一起创业的伙伴们共享，让餐饮同行共享，让未来的年轻从业者共享，因为未来属于他们。

If I am blessed with unlimited talents, powers and financial resources, I will share it with my partners and colleagues in the industry, and as well the future generation of practitioners, because the future belongs to them.

如果我不是餐厅老板

If I were Not a Restaurateur

我可能会从事艺术行业，尤其是中国传统艺术，我希望能让传统成为潮流，让经典永远流传。

If by chance I did not pursue the course of a chef-restaurateur, I would imagine myself engaged in the arts, especially traditional Chinese art. I envision myself setting new trends for the classics into the future.